Advertisements

Escape to Emilia-Romagna

8 Jun
The heat built fast in Roma. Ten days prior we were putting on our fleece jackets in the morning because it was cold in the apartment, but by the time my brother and sister-in-law arrived June 1, that was no longer a problem: it was getting warm. Luckily for us – if not for our cat sitters – we were leaving Roma. We also left behind the tourist hoards.
Lunch on the veranda at Corte d'Aibo is a family affair.

Lunch on the veranda at Corte d’Aibo is a family affair.

Heading to Emilia-Romagna on June 2 (the Festival of the Republic which celebrates the election in 1946 when the monarchy was rejected in favor of a republic), we left behind the Roma tourists only to find throngs of Italians. At least they were at lunch when we arrived at Agriturismo Corte d’AiboBut that was the holiday and the last day of the Italian four-day weekend. Continuing on to our mountain destination of Montese, we found ourselves the only tourists at the very pleasant Hotel Belvedere .
This is not your average balsamico. This is Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, another thing entirely.

This is not your average balsamico. This is Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, another thing entirely.

I found Hotel Belvedere and Corte d’Aibo thanks to Riccardo of Trekking Emilia-Romagna. Somehow my SIL Jane and I hit on going to E-R and hiking, and I was fortunate to stumble upon Riccardo’s company. He put together a great itinerary for us including a tasting and tour at an acetaio called Ca’ dal Non,  lunch at the agriturismo, and a guided hike through the mountains, which saw significant action in World War II. The arrangements also included our hotel, breakfasts and dinners. All we had to do was show up and sweat a little on the hike.
Stefano, foreground, explains a fountain in the mountains to Jane, Rick and Ric. Multiple basins allowed people to use one for drnking water, the next for washing, and a final one for watering livestock.

Stefano, foreground, explains a fountain in the mountains to Jane, Rick and Ric. Multiple basins allowed people to use one for drinking water, the next for washing, and a final one for watering livestock.

During our hike, we learned about the flora, fauna and history of the area. The Gothic Line was here, a place where Germany was making a last stance in the north of Italy as the Allied Armies, having fought their way north through the boot, bombed the heck out of them, and unfortunately, also bombed the Italian villages.
We met an older man – he said he was 80 – who upon learning we were Americans said, “The Germans went away, the Americans left, and now there are no porcini.” He was jesting, but memories are long: although we “liberated” the area, the old growth forest was destroyed by both the German occupiers and the liberating armies, so the treasured porcini no longer grow there. We chatted in Italian for a while and when we commented on his good health and energy (after all he was taking the same long hike that was wearing out us 60-somethings) he said “They gave me an organ donor card and I told them ‘take anything you want; none of it works anyway!’”
Ric in our woodsy picnic spot, an area frequented by families on Sundays. This one surrounded a church that commemorated the civilians killed in the area.

Ric in our woodsy picnic spot, an area frequented by families on Sundays. This one surrounded a church that commemorated the civilians killed in the area.

Stefano, our guide, was a font of information and knew the area well, having grown up nearby in the famous cherry town of Vignola. He speaks excellent English having lived in the U.S. (He loves Seattle!) We lugged along Parmegiano-Reggiano, salume, bread, and fruit for a picnic, along with local Lambrusco and a homemade crostata, all supplied by the hotel. At the end of the trek, my pedometer wrongly said the hike was about 8 km, Stefano said 11, my brother estimated 12. It felt like 18.
We were then treated to a tour of a caseificio or cheese factory at Dal Contadino.  This was a multi-generational farm operation producing the famous parmigiano-reggiano as well as ricotta, marmalade, and more. It was fun to visit a typical small family operation and see the incredible labor that goes into making this cheese. The artigianale beers they served with the cheese really hit the spot after hiking. If you ever get a chance to drink White Dog Beer, do it.
At the top of Mount Belvedere there is a monument honoring the 10th Mountain Division.

At the top of Mount Belvedere there is a monument honoring the 10th Mountain Division.

I have to say that, whatever the length, the trek barely dented the calories we were consuming. The kind owners of Hotel Belvedere looked after us well. Clean, comfortable rooms with good showers, incredible food from classic pastas for primi to roasted rabbit, pork and steak for secondi. They were also experts in recommending local wines to complement their food and served some of the best grappa around. Compare this with an American town of 3400 people where your choice of wine with dinner might be beer.
Montese has a castle dating back to the 13th century.

Montese has a castle dating back to the 13th century.

This was not high tourist season. In fact, it seems only August gets pretty busy. Otherwise Montese is off the radar of folks headed to more famous destinations. Nearby one can visit the Ferrari Museum in Maranello, the town of Modena, and even Parma is within reach.
After three nights we somewhat reluctantly said good-bye to Montese and the lovely folks at the hotel, as this was part one of a three-part trip. On to Lago di Garda!
Piazza in Montese, in front of the Hotel Belvedere.

Piazza in Montese, in front of the Hotel Belvedere.

We took one day away from Montese to journey to Maranello and the Ferrari Museum. Quite a collection!

We took one day away from Montese to journey to Maranello and the Ferrari Museum. Quite a collection!

Advertisements

11 Responses to “Escape to Emilia-Romagna”

  1. M June 16, 2015 at 06:51 #

    Oh yay! I’m so glad you came to Emilia-Romagna! Looks like you had a great experience. Trekking ER is a great company; I’ve heard good things about them multiple times.

    Next time you’re near Reggio Emilia, let me know! We can grab a coffee and chit chat!
    -M

    Like

    • gooddayrome June 16, 2015 at 07:21 #

      Thanks M! I am sure we’ll be back next spring for areas further north such as Reggio and Parma. Riccardo Solmi was such a great resource, and the people so welcoming!

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Marcia Kakiuchi June 10, 2015 at 04:12 #

    Your perfect descriptions of hiking, great cheeses and breads paired with delicious and colorful wines ( not to mention the little hotel!) just make me think this is a movie you are starting in and not real! Keep up these wonderful descriptions.

    Like

    • gooddayrome June 10, 2015 at 05:52 #

      Dear Marcia, It is always a pleasure to read your remarks! You are very kind! There are boring moments in this movie, like washing clothes in the hotel sink. And annoying ones, like when my brother’s car went off the road when he swerved to avoid some cyclists and Hertz had trouble directing the tow truck to us so we waited in a mountain meadow for almost 4 hours…. It’s all interesting one way or another!

      Like

      • ckleonard June 10, 2015 at 18:00 #

        It is always good to know how to “live in the moment”!

        Like

  3. ckleonard June 9, 2015 at 19:42 #

    This adventure sounds like a dream. But then, all of them sound that way. I have been a bit delinquent with my email. Now I’m looking forward to some of your other, unread, posts. Portland is having hot hot weather. Too many days in a row! I’m looking forward to seeing you in August!

    Like

    • gooddayrome June 10, 2015 at 05:49 #

      Hi Carolyn! Nice to hear from you as always. We are having fun. It is nice not to go to work. 🙂 What Portland calls hot we now call “nice.” I fear our bones have warmed up a bit living here!

      Like

      • ckleonard June 10, 2015 at 18:02 #

        I agree with you about Portland weather. In the 90’s with low humidity is much more comfortable than other places with humidity.

        Like

  4. Justice tower June 9, 2015 at 15:39 #

    How wonderful, you travel like a local. Romagna is on our list to visit. I will keep notes where you had been, say hi to Jan and Rick.

    Like

    • gooddayrome June 9, 2015 at 17:41 #

      Hi Justice! Nice to hear from you! Hopefully we can meet when you are in Italy.

      Like

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. 2 – 5 de junho 2015 | [Portuguese, Portugal] Cycling Italy - January 25, 2016

    […] Escape to Emilia-Romagna […]

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: