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Hiking in the Dolomites, July 2015

25 Jul
25 July 2015. This post may be a bore for some readers, but at least the pictures are pretty. I am writing it mostly so I have a good reference for “what I did on my summer vacation” and can remember which hikes to do and not to do next summer.
For hiking enthusiasts, especially those who are “of a certain age” this may be a reference for hikes in the Dolomites that do not require pitons, crampons, or the energy of a 30-year-old. Many of the guidebooks talk about “easy hikes” and then do not tell you about the knee-pounding descents or heart-pounding ascents, not to mention narrow trails above steep ravines and gorges. Some so-called “easy” hikes end up being 4+ hours. We can do that now-and-then, but not every day.
FYI, the pedometer readings include everything for the day, whether on the trail or walking to dinner or to get groceries.
This is an abbreviated version, believe it or not. It was a very active two weeks!

Monday, July 6 – Long way down: Rasciesa to Ortisei via Val d’Anna

We happened upon this carving in the middle of the forest, unsigned, a  gift from a local woodcarver.

During our descent, we happened upon this carving in the middle of the forest, unsigned, a gift from a local woodcarver.

We arrived in Ortisei on Sunday afternoon in the middle of their sagra and settled in. It was HOT so we decided to take it easy with a mostly downhill hike through the forest on Monday. WRONG! We ascended via a funicolare at Rasciesa which we have done many times prior. Rather than hike the sun-exposed Rasciesa plateau in the heat and humidity, we decided to take “easy” Trail #35 east, descending on Trail #9.  Bad move. It was a knee-jarring, quadriceps-pounding, mostly-exposed, slippery-rock-studded mistake. Three-and-a-half hours of downhill tromping made us wonder why we came on vacation. Now we know why we saw only mountain bikes and no other walkers. Actually, it would not have been so bad had we not missed our turn to a planned rifugio where we could have rested and had some refreshment (hiking goes better with strudel), followed by a wooded path following a burbling stream through a valley. Oh, would-that-had-happened! One sign pointed downhill to the rifugio, but when we were 100 meters down the hill, another sign pointed back the direction we had come. In frustration, and believing ourselves to be near the finish-line, we carried on, but it was another hour to the bottom. Ugh! It was a good workout in terms of calorie-burning, and at least we were in good enough shape we could still get out of bed the next morning.
Pedometer: Didn’t freaking work! Estimate 8 km for the day.

Tuesday, July 7 – Abandoning waterfalls for high ground: Monte Pana to Saltria

VIew from the trail to Saltria.

View from the trail to Saltria.

Planning an easy hike today, we took the bus to the village of Santa Cristina and the Monte Pana chair lift, where at the base we were to find an “easy” waterfall walk. We found the waterfalls – at least one of them – after hiking across an unsigned meadow, but no official path. Having Val Gardena Passes in hand, we could ride any of 12 lifts in the valley, so we thought we’d ride the chairlift and have a look around. Of course, we found a rifugio (really more of a hotel) at the top of the lift, so over a cappuccino we pondered our options. There was a bambini trail, but that seemed too silly. Saltria, a location we know well, was purported to be a hike of 1h:45m so off we went, knowing that at the end we would find a hotel with a nice café and a bus to Compatsch, followed by a
Cute little Santa Cristina.

Cute little Santa Cristina.

dramatic cableway descent and a comfy bus back to Ortisei. This hike, for the record, followed Trail #30A through mostly wooded terrain to Trail #18, which leads to Saltria. There were a few nice viewpoints, and some sun exposure although mostly at the start and finish. Hot and humid, so we had quite a trek…not the easy waterfall walk we had planned but an easy enough hour-and-forty-five. The Alpe di Siusi was having a record heat wave and this was the second consecutive 36-degree Celsius day. I felt sorry for the little ponies at Compatsch who had to stand in the sun waiting for tourists to go on carriage rides. Brutal for them! The cows did not seem to mind the weather.
Pedometer: 18,766 steps; 10.3 km

Thursday, July 9 – Cool at last: Ciampinoi to Passo Sella

Snuggled up against the Sassolungo, there is an vast terrace and lawn. The little pods swivel on their bases.

Snuggled up against the Sassolungo, there is a vast terrace and lawn. The seating pods swivel on their bases.

It was a pleasant 10 C/50 F at the top of the lift. Jackets required! Sunny and clear, hiking sticks at the ready, we headed off to Rifugio Emilio Comici, our first stop, which turned out to be a gem. The rifugio is tucked up under the Sassolungo, modern, with an enormous terrace, a generous lawn with sun chairs, and the cutest pods for lounging and dining. It also has THE BEST bathrooms, employing technology at every turn and clean as the proverbial whistle.  Heading off after a perfect espresso and, for me, yogurt with 4 kinds of fresh berries, we completed our hike to the large hotel at Passo Sella, complete with bar (serving strudel of course), restaurant, and the strangest lift we’ve ever seen. The “cable cars” looked like flying refrigerators and we took one up to the VERY high Rifugio Toni Demetz. Click on any picture to enlarge and view the slide show.
The Sella Pass is at 2244 meters/7362 feet, and the rifugio is at 2685 meters/8809 feet.   One cannot merely step into one of the refrigerator lifts, one is bodily thrown in by two young, strong men who use a firm grip to propel you and slam the door firmly behind you before you can change your mind. At the other end, they pull you out and thrust you off to the side to avoid being hit by incoming cars. Repeat upon return. Ric and I did not understand the drill as when we arrived there was no line, so we did not manage to get into the same compartment. We rode separately, waving from time-to-time across a divide of a few meters. On the way down we managed to get thrust into the same car. For the record, we took Trail #21 to Comici and #526 to Passo Sella.
One can continue to hike from Passo Sella, or return via the same route, but we opted for lunch at the very nice restaurant, then took a bus (included in the free bus card most lodging establishments give you) back to Ortisei.
Pedometer: 20,815 steps; 11.5 km

Friday July 10 – Same but different: Ciampinoi to Mont Seüra

Trail side company.

Trail side company.

Thursday provided exactly the type of hike we like: clear, cool weather, glorious scenery, long enough but not too long, good exercise, fabulous photo ops, food in the middle and at the end, and good transportation. (A loop hike or one with good transportation is ever more desirable than an out-and-back.) We liked Thursday’s hike so much that we returned to Ciampinoi and this time headed west, opposite of the prior day. Rifugio Emilio Comici was on the way, so we knew exactly where second-breakfast was to be found. With our trusty map in hand, we set out from Comici intending to take #526B to Mont Seüra. We ended up on #526A (a harder trail) because we missed a tiny little turn onto a short portion of #528 that led to #526B, sooooo we ended up on a hike across a scree field that was 1¼ hours longer than planned. And we had not even had strudel! The final section of the hike was across a beautiful meadow with a killer view of the Alpe di Siusi in the distance, and since we survived, I have no complaints.
Pedometer: 18,926; 10.4 km
Ric hikes across the unexpected field of scree. We were supposed to be in the meadow below.

Ric hikes across the unexpected field of scree. We were supposed to be in the meadow below.

From Mont Seura, view of the Alpe di Siusi, largest high-alpine meadow in Europe.

From Mont Seura, view of the Alpe di Siusi, largest high-alpine meadow in Europe.

Sunday July 12 – Witch hunt: Fiè to Castello di Presule

Once upon a time, this area witnessed the persecution of nine women judged to be witches. In the 16th century, they were tortured and burned, source of the so-called Schlernhexen stories. Today, the emblem of a witch on a broom is used in marketing the area to tourists, enticing them with the natural beauty. Go figure.
Castello Presule from early in the hike.

Castello Presule from early in the hike.

We started with a bus ride from Ortisei to Fiè, about 45 minutes. Although one can actually take a bus to the village of Presule and visit the castle, we had not hiked below the Sciliar (German: Schlern) on this side, the west side, and were drawn by what we thought would be a shady hike. It was about 50% exposed to the sun, so not bad. Nothing spectacular but nice enough, with some good views of the castle. We were too close to the mountain to see it, though.
Arriving at the castle, we missed the English tour by 10 minutes and the next one was 3 hours off.  We settled for coffee in the shade. This was one of those locations that makes you shake your head in wonder. There was a castle here as early as 1200. The current one dates to the early 16th century. Yet there is a tiny coffee bar where a nice lady pulls good shots into ceramic cups and dispenses directions on bus routes and schedules. There was a nice shady picnic area to lounge in before hiking 20 minutes downhill to wait for a bus back to Ortisei, where we arrived in time for lunch. Not a bad outing on a day that was getting too hot for hiking comfort.
Pedometer: 17,835; 9.8 km 

Monday July 13 – Giorno di riposo: Shopping in Bolzano

Piazza Walther, Bolzano

Piazza Walther, Bolzano

In a longer trip, taking a day off (giorno di riposo) is a nice change of pace. No hiking and no sightseeing, just a morning shopping expedition in Bolzano, followed by a fabulous lunch at a very inventive new restaurant in Ortisei, and an afternoon of relaxing, reading, writing, organizing photos, and so on. So relaxing we didn’t even go out to dinner.
In fact, on this trip we decided to prepare meals in more often. After all, we’re retired and we have time! The result of cooking a few simple meals was a savings of about Euro 400.00 over what we would normally spend in two weeks of travel. Niente male!
Pedometer: 10,304; 5.7 km 

Tuesday July 14 – Harder than we thought: Rasciesa to Malga Brogules

Little Rifugio Malga Brogules, beneath the Seceda Plateau, Puez-Odle.

Little Rifugio Malga Brogules, beneath the Seceda Plateau, Puez-Odle.

Back to Rasciesa, from the funicolare we headed east, opposite of our hike on Saturday. This was labeled an easy hike by some source or another. I’d say it had nothing technical, but there was a VERY steep downhill at the beginning, along a path of set stone (Appia Antica style, but less level and with a significant downhill grade) which required one to watch every step. So happy to have my hiking sticks! I have become a very cautious hiker since injuring my knee in a fall in Roma last March. The knee is still a bit grumpy, though not painful, and the thought of re-injury makes me shudder. This trail (#35) also has a very steep descent to the rifugio Malga Brogules, about a kilometer of the same type of stone path. There was no turning back as the thoughts of a bathroom and espresso were front-of-mind. It was, however, the longest kilometer I have ever walked.
This rifugio was under major renovation and I feared would be out-of-service. Luckily, in the spirit of true mountain hospitality they had table service and freshly-baked strudel as well as a sparkling clean facility. Retracing our steps on this out-and-back hike we found climbing the steep sections of paving stones much easier than descending them. This was a 4h:10m hike altogether, with a ½ hour stop at the rifugio and a couple of brief water/rest stops along the way.
Pedometer: 24,005; 13.2 km

Friday July 17 – Friends in high places: Hiking Piz Sorega

Ortisei in the morning. The two steeples look the same size from this perspective, but the closer one is a fraction of the size of the big church on the hill.

Ortisei in the morning. The two steeples look the same size from this perspective, but the closer one is a fraction of the size of the big church on the hill.

Our friend Marjory was staying in San Cassiano in the Alta Badia, so we headed over the Passo Gardena to meet her. Holy cow, what a bus trip! Fabulous scenery and so happy I did not have to drive so I could look at the view! We had promised ourselves that with two weeks in Ortisei we would take some time to explore neighboring valleys we had heard about: The Val Badia, Val di Fassa, etc. (We made it to the Val Pusteria in June.) Here we are, two days from end-of-trip when we finally head over the pass to expand our horizons.
The Alta Badia is fabulous, too. We were impressed with the mountains that are just the other side of the Sella Group from the Val Gardena. Marjory scouted out a lovely hike and we could see the potential for a lot of exploring just from the top of the lift at Piz Sorega, and there are many other towns in this little enclave that beg exploration as well. I think a small side trip is in order for 2016. Thanks for the introduction to the A.B. Marjory!
Pedometer: 14,859; 8.2 km

Saturday July 18 – Last day hike: Mont Seuc to Monte Piz and back

We have fond memories of our Christmas Day hike, so we did about half of it, returning to Mont Seuc after coffee at Hotel Icaro. It was an easy hike across to Icaro. We returned via Sole so we could take the chairlift to make an easy morning. Lots of people out, and thank God it was cooler due to rain the night before. In fact, we had a terrific thunderstorm. We would have expected at least two each week, but only had one good one. No doubt a result of the wacky summer weather: climate change in action. I am worried for our planet.
Pedometer17,952; 9.9 km
Three years ago I took this picture from Mont Seuc, looking toward the Sassolungo & Sasso Piatto.
Hopeful benches, 2012. This is the view that made me fall in love with the Val Gardena.

Hopeful benches, 2012. This is the view that made me fall in love with the Val Gardena.

Same location in 2015
Same benches, three years later, but today we are in the clouds!

Same benches, three years later, but today we are in the clouds!

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27 Responses to “Hiking in the Dolomites, July 2015”

  1. Ann August 11, 2016 at 20:45 #

    Hi!

    I am so thrilled to find your blog. THANK YOU! It’s very enjoyable and helpful. My husband and I are planning a trip to Ortisei the last week of September. (We are in our fifty, fit, but not athletic.) Like you, I am having a hard time figuring out the difficulty and required time commitment of the hikes. I am considering taking the Passo Sella-Forcella del Sassolungo up and then hiking down by way of trails 525 to 526 to 526A to 526 (stop at Comici to eat and use those cool bathrooms!) continue on 526 to the parking lot of Passo Sella-Forcella del Sassolungo. Are you familiar with this route? Any advice? Again, thanks so much!

    Like

    • GoodDayRome August 12, 2016 at 07:35 #

      Hi Ann. Welcome to my blog! Happy you like it.

      If I understand your plans, you will take the “flying refrigerators” up to Rifugio Toni Demetz and then hike down the other side, looping around via Comici then the Naturonda back to Passo Sella where you are parking. 526A is a little challenging as it includes a scree field to navigate, and I know I would not like the descent from Toni Demetz because of my knees. We really dislike long, steep downhills. But when I was in my mid-fifties before two falls (in the streets of Rome!) I might well have done it. Assume you have good mountain boots and will take or buy locally trekking poles?

      I woudl also recommend that when you leave Comici you will come to a fork where you should go LEFT. To the right, it shows a baby carriage route and to the left a hiker-symbol, but the “baby” route is a decent walk, with some uphill portions (and I would not want to push a carriage there). The route to the right, denoted by a hiker symbol is very tough with rocks to be scrambled over. All-in-all I would take the path to the right, the Naturonda that starts at Ciampinoi. You might even hear or see marmots there.

      Have fun! Our month there was so perfect the only thing better would have been two months! I highly recommend Vives Ristorante on the main street, and Ristorante Concordia.

      Like

      • Ann August 14, 2016 at 15:02 #

        Thanks so much for the advice on the hike and the restaurant recommendations! It’s very helpful.

        I have some more questions if you have the time and inclination. We will be coming to the Dolomites from Slovenia and were planning on passing by Tre Cime without stopping. I recently read through, that they are the equivalent of Yosemite’s Half Dome. Do you think this is a valid comparison, and we will be missing the star attraction? (I could feasibly cut our time in Lake Bled to one night and stay instead near Tre Cime.)

        So far our itinerary is arrive from Julian Alps to overnight at Rufigio Lagazuo. The next day drive the Gardena pass to the Sella pass, take the “flying refrigerators” up to Rifugio Toni Demetz and then hike down via Rifugio Comici /Naturonda back to Passo Sella, overnight Ortisei. Next day, take the Furnes-Seceda lifts up, hike 1/2B/ 6, take the Col Raiser lift down, overnight Ortisei. The next day, take the Alpe di Suisi and Sole lifts up, hike, Alpe di Suisi lift down and onward to Lake Garda. Does this sound like a good sampling of the area?

        I’d greatly appreciate your thoughts and look forward to your reply!

        Like

        • GoodDayRome August 14, 2016 at 16:49 #

          Hi again Ann. I am not sure how to advise you on the Tre Cime. If you only stay near there one night, I don’t think you’ll have time to hike. We stayed in Moso (near there) last year and passed on the Tre Cime as being a bit remote to get to with our limited time in the area, and it is probably a hike beyond our means. I think you will want to research times required to drive into a trailhead there if you only have one night.

          I think you will like the Seceda-to-Col Raiser hike. There are a lot of trail options so you might ask around on recommendations. I think you need to fit #13 in there somewhere. Be sure to pass by the Firenze Hut.

          For your Alpe di Siusi hike, so you mean to take the lift up at Ortisei, then hike across and come down at Compatsch, or vice versa. We usually work in Sole only when trying to avoid the hike up from there to Mont Seuc, so when we hike Compatsch TO Ortisei.

          Like

        • Ann August 15, 2016 at 18:51 #

          Hi there!

          Thanks so much for the feedback. We’ll save Tre Cime for next time. I’m glad you mentioned trail 13 on the Secede – Col Raiser hike! We will definitely include it and the Firenze Hut. Regarding the Alpe di Suisi hike, I’m not sure if we’ll have enough time to go to Compatsch, but will keep it has an option. Thanks again, and best of luck with your book on the Dolomites. You’re certainly a wealth of knowledge.

          Like

        • GoodDayRome August 16, 2016 at 10:05 #

          You can easily go up at Ortisei, hike around up there, and return to Ortisei via the lift at Mont Seuc. One we have done, if you have time, is to Saltria and back. For us, about 90 minutes each way.

          Like

  2. Yvonne August 6, 2016 at 22:21 #

    Hi there –

    I really like reading your blog about your hikes! It has exactly the type of information I have been looking for. My husband and I both have to be careful about our knees – especially the downhill – how steep it is and also, how rocky any trail is. We actually do like to hike for 4 to 6 hours a day – but on the right trails, and for me especially, the scenery is critical. I love being able to see the dramatic mountains and the open sky. Oh, I also like to hike in as little rain as possible – I know a lot of that is up to Mother Nature, but some areas are known for more rain than others. Any trail recommendations are greatly appreciated.
    I do have a question, in your description of some of the hikes you reference Trail numbers like Trail #35 east – and other numbered hikes, but I did not see the name of the book or the map the trail number refers to. If you could please let me know, that would be great. We are planning on going to the Dolomites in 2017 – and like some others I love to plans these trips in detail ahead of time. In a way it is like traveling twice.

    Thank you very much,
    Yvonne

    Like

    • GoodDayRome August 7, 2016 at 06:13 #

      Hi Yvonne and welcome to my blog! The trail numbers are those assigned on maps (and how the trails themselves are numbered on wayfinding) in the area. When you buy a map (or pick up the freebie handed out with tickets and passes) these are the numbers you will see. For the area we like, you might have a look at this link http://www.valgardena.it/en/hiking-biking/walking-trekking/virtual-hiking-map/#zc=13,11.70195,46.56208 and at this one http://www.valgardena.it/dl/stchristina/pdf/Wander_Sommerkarte_201516.pdf. The latter is hard to see online. It is better on paper, but I still recommend having a Kompass 1:25000 map of the trails which is available at Amazon and also locally in every shop.

      I have found some of the local descriptions including those online to be less than satisfactory. “Easy” hikes that turn into trails of terror or “you can’t miss it” directions that leave us scratching our heads. I am writing a book on “easier” hikes in the Val Gardena. If you follow my blog, you’ll see it announced, hopefully by the end of the year!

      BTW, I love to have a good list of hikes planned before we go with plans for both overcast and sunny days, long and short hikes, close to home base and more remote. Love reading about the possibilities even if they are trails we do not feel up tackling.

      Like

  3. Kathleen August 30, 2015 at 18:35 #

    Hello Nancy! I just discovered your blog and am thrilled by your description of the hikes. My husband and I are in our 60’s and though we are fit (still hike and ski) we do not see a via ferratta in our future!
    We are planning a trip to the Val Gardena in Sept of 2016 and want to stay in Ortisei. My idea of a great hike is to take a cable car or lift to a rifugio, eat, hike 2 to 3 hours, eat again and descend by cable car. I have been searching for doable hikes and so far the ones you describe seem the most promising. I have the Cicerone book titled Shorter Walks in the Dolomites but even these seem beyond our limits.
    What I am wondering is whether or not I am overplanning- I have been known to do this. When we arrive will we find helpful information for planning our days or should we plan hikes ahead?
    Also, my family lived in the sud tirol during WW1 and I am interested in seeing some of the tunnels used during the war. So far it looks like the only access to the tunnels is by the via ferratas. Have you seen any on your hikes?
    I love doing landscape photography and yours are stunning. Thanks for such an informative blog,
    Kathleen

    Like

    • Kathleen August 30, 2015 at 18:47 #

      Oops! Sorry I goofed on your name- writing too fast!

      Like

    • gooddayrome August 30, 2015 at 19:56 #

      Hi Kathleen. I struggled to find books with hikes that fit my criteria, which are about the same as yours. I have the Cicerone book and I think we used a couple of them. Mostly we go to the TI in Ortisei and get a map and ask for advice. This page has some good planned activities in Ortisei including guided hikes. And this site has some walks that are almost too easy.

      Once you have the map and do a couple of hikes you will see other places on the map you may want to try. I highly recommend the Rasciesa Ridge as a starter/familiarization hike. You can just go to the little church and back, or up to Santa Croce or even further, if you are feeling energetic. I do tend to overplan as well, then adapt based on weather, time, energy and local info.

      I have not seen tunnels, but we did run into more detailed WWI involvement up in Moso in the Val Pusteria last June. They were occupied, it seems. That is a bit of a trek from the Val Gardena, though.

      We are spending the month of June in Ortisei next year, so I will no doubt blog about some additional adventures.

      Have fun!!!

      Like

      • Kathleen August 18, 2016 at 01:05 #

        Hello again! I have read and reread your blog several times and just love it! We will be in Ortisei the first week in September and truly don’t think I would feel at all prepared if not for your wonderful blog.
        My husband and I are more walkers than Hikers but I am planning on following (or at least starting) a few of the hikes you mention.
        One question that I have not been able to find an answer to and I hope you can help. I saw that there are bike rentals in Ortisei and that they rent Electric bikes. I was wondering if there are some pathways on the Alpe di Siusi that would be suitable for Electric Bikes? I was thinking it might be a nice easy way to explore. I have a TABACCO map and it shows some “cycle tracks” but not sure if these are only mountain bike trails.

        Like

        • GoodDayRome August 18, 2016 at 04:47 #

          Hi Kathleen. We are just back from a month in Ortisei and it flew! It was like a dream! We are not cyclers, but a friend went earlier this summer and their daughter used an e-bike and they were all jealous of her choice! Ask locally and they will advise what trails you can or cannot do. I think the Hans & Paula Steger Weg would be excellent, but confirm at the shop or the TI. Have fun!

          Like

  4. Mary Catherine Olive August 29, 2015 at 15:34 #

    Next summer in June I will be studying abroad and will have the opportunity to spend 3 or 4 days in the Dolomites. I will be in Florence and dependent on the trains and buses to get to the mountains. What are the must see places or routes that I should focus on doing? Also would you suggest hiking from hut to hut or setting up a base camp in one of the towns and doing day hikes? Any tips and suggestions that you have I would love to hear!

    Your pictures are amazing and it makes me want to leave tomorrow!

    Like

    • gooddayrome August 29, 2015 at 16:38 #

      Hi Mary Catherine. What a wonderful opportunity you have!

      We do not do overnight hut-to-hut hikes, but they are possible. Having visited 3 valleys now (Alta Badia, Alta Pusteria and Val Gardena) the Val Gardena is by far our favorite. There are more lifts and hikes than in the others, with access to the Alpe di Siusi out of Ortisei, which you know by now is our favorite town. The V.G. gives you access to both the AdS and the Puez-Odle, which has some magnificent hikes.

      This site has an interesting looking 4-day trek, but using the main site http://www.valgardena.it/en/ you can see more of what the V.G. has to offer. I also recommend you pick up a Cicerone book on trekking or walking in the Dolomites for more inspiration. Note that June can still be snowy, so you might want to have a base for nights and make long day hikes. If you do end up with hut-to-hut (actually called a rifugio in Italian) You can buy a V.G. pass that will cover all your lifts. That info is also on the V.G. site. The TI in Ortisei is also great at recommending hikes so you should check with them on arrival for the latest info on trail conditions.

      In Ortisei, I can highly recommend http://www.villaaurelia.info/ or http://www.garniwalter.it/eng/index.html. Anna at Villa Aurelia is a mountain climber as is Georg at Garni Walter.

      Happy planning!

      Like

  5. Chloe July 27, 2015 at 13:41 #

    Thank you for the beautiful photos. i enjoyed your trip.

    Like

  6. Diana July 26, 2015 at 16:24 #

    I love seeing your hiking vacations. I want to come to Italy and hike with you. Looking forward to seeing you when you get to Washington.

    Like

    • gooddayrome July 26, 2015 at 16:34 #

      Hi Diana!!!! I am certain you would kick my butt hiking. You have way more stamina I think. We are so excited to see everyone on the 16th! Baci!

      Like

  7. Marcia July 25, 2015 at 18:14 #

    First, I just can’t believe the # of steps you took on these days! It would use up those extra calorie steps eating more…at least I wouldn’t feel guilty then eating all of the fantastic food. Second, I totally agree about going UP easier than DOWN on the knees. I’ve had knee surgeries in both knees and going down often just hurts like heck. Descending Kilimanjaro was 1000 times worse then climbing up!! Your scenery is unbelievable. I would have also enjoyed that thunderstorm myself. Keep on sending great stories and photos!!!

    Like

    • gooddayrome July 25, 2015 at 18:20 #

      Thanks Marcia. We had to do something to balance the strudel and wine consumption. I don’t think I’d try Kilamanjaro on a dare, though!

      Like

  8. Mary henry July 25, 2015 at 17:37 #

    Laurel , great photos , you could have a ‘third’ carreer , I look forward to seeing you in Portland on Aug 7 at 2 pm for your mani /pedi . Email me if you need directions . Travel well …
    Mary

    Like

  9. nancyarneson July 25, 2015 at 17:27 #

    L. These are so wonderful. Thank you for your awesome blogs!

    Sent from Nancy Arneson’s iPad. 952-474-8648

    Like

    • gooddayrome July 25, 2015 at 17:39 #

      Thank you Nancy! Come over and see us. We are spending a month there next summer!

      Like

  10. Maarja July 25, 2015 at 16:35 #

    Wow! You are taking my breath away with all this hiking. Such a great way to visit this area of Italy. Will we see you soon in Portland?

    Like

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Training cats | gooddayrome - July 2, 2016

    […] days of hiking but are taking it easy adjusting versus last year when we pushed it the first day. See my entry for July 6, 2015, in this too-long post about hiking last year. This year we took one of our favorite hikes […]

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